hermès ss15

Hermès SS15

The final show of the season, and the last for Christopher Lemaire at the iconic Parisian Maison.

Hermès SS15: the last show of the season, and the last for Christophe Lemaire at the house he has helmed for four years. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski of The Row is set to take over from Lemaire as he concentrates his energies on his own eponymous line. However, Lemaire was not going to go quietly, taking his bow amidst a sand-swept Saharan catwalk, framed by a bright, flame-coloured curtain. This was a warmly optimistic show, pervaded by the carefree spirit of the desert wanderer.

The colour palette of the designs mirrored the hot, dusty atmosphere; saffron yellows bought the pale grey and beige neutrals alive, while touches of inky blue, indigo and claret added to the richness of the clothes. Contrasting natural materials were used within each outfit; think crocodile, lambskin and silk poplin combined in shirts, shorts and flowing dresses. Draping, flowing layers were given a very slight structure by lively prints, or the precision of a parka.

Printed scarves cascaded and wrapped around shoulders, cocooning the models in a loose, comfortable haze of rippling fabrics. Sumptuous cashmere appeared in double-faced coats jackets: travel-ready luxe at your service.

There was also a touch of tailoring, specifically in the leather shirts and Capri jeans. Lemaire also became one of several designers this season to hero wide-legged city shorts. Strappy platform heels grounded the flowing silhouettes with assertive structure.

Sophisticated, subtle, carefree. This final chapter at Hermès is only the beginning of Christophe Lemaire’s career.